2009 is the Year of Many Things. One of them being, The International Year of Natural Fibres as proclaimed by the United Nations. It is safe to say that most people have other things on their mind than what material their clothes are made of. Many probably have cut down the fashion budget but it is true that evermore of what we are eating and wearing is getting labelled organic. Synthetic fibres have only been around since the 50′s after all and 10,000 years of civilisation cannot be wrong. That might be stretching it a bit but wool has been around for at least six thousand years. In recent decades, synthetic fibres have gained prominence and the fact that we have to promote natural materials is, when you think about it, something of a mystery. But along with so many things from the golden age of post-war western society that in hindsight were small mistakes -like ‘Doctor’s smoke Camel’ and other advertisements on the dubious side- synthetic fibre somehow became synonymous with progress. Natural fibres, we have come to realise, are not only healthy and comfortable but also bio-degradable and renewable, a good track record when compared with oil derivatives.
The aims of the International Year of Natural Fibres include raising the profile of natural fibres as an important source of income for poor producers in the developing world as well as encouraging sustainability and efficiency in its production. This could move methods for both growing and processing towards a more organic. The cost of some chemical fertilisers has escalated lately and put them out of bounds for many producers, especially in developing nations. This has forced for example cotton farmers to borrow money at excruciating interest rates and switching to organic production will of course alleviate this even if part of the savings are offset by the fact that crop yields tend to go down.
Cotton is a troublesome issue when it comes to sustainability. Together with tobacco it is one of the most taxing crops to grow with a heavy impact on the soil. A large part of this is due to extensive use of pesticides and chemical fertilisers. With an 80% market share of all natural fibres, it is crucial to make it a more organically grown produce. Wool is the second largest natural fibre, accounting for roughly 5% globally.
An anecdote when compared to cotton and wool, the common stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) is something that has come back in later years. Apart from being the main ingredient in excellent soup, nettle can also be used for making textiles. Related to flax and hemp, it can be used to produce a fine linen cloth. There is evidence that during the late Bronze Age, nettle cloth was made in Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Poland, Germany and Russia. In Poland thread made of nettle was supplanted by silk in the 17th century but nettle cloth was produced in both Scandinavia and Scotland. The fibres are white and silky, up to 50mm long and the resulting fabric is very fine and thin.
Other natural fibres include a large variety of grasses, leaves, barks and creepers. All countries have naturally occurring plants that are usable for textile production, some more than others and Papua New Guinea and Swaziland are now trying to develop natural fibre industries.
The next time you are itching for a pull-over of wool, why not make it an organic one from laughing local sheep?
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In the UK, Natural Fibres Direct offers a range of products made from wool, cashmere, bamboo and linen with more coming soon. See their website here.
