
Shoes, in my opinion, should aspire to be like a piece of furniture. Let me explain- I’ve had shoes that wear at the toe, or tear slowly and horribly along funny creases, after fairly short lives. I look for shoes that age well, shoes of substance. Shoes that withstand the rot. All shoes die of course, as will any textile, and as a genus they have shorter lifespans than a mahogany desk, or a marble paperweight- but shoes should at least be repairable. Their parts should be upgradable like a well-built piece of machinery. I think of the ideal shoe as being something solid; something deeply coloured and of an esteemed nature. A practical thing, to be admired like a piece of decorative art. An investment. Looking for a green or ethical pair like this- now that’s a whole other nightmare.
Having scoured retailers on the high street (I caught wind of an ethical Australian shoe maker from a friend, only to find out they’d moved their production to the far east), I found- whilst browsing for an ethical winter coat, having given up hope on the shoe front- a green shoe company that outdoes the rest. Let me set the scene.
England: the present day. In rural Devon, by the banks of the River Dart, there is a workshop. Inside, a small group of artisans work, making shoes by hand. Not only are these shoes handmade, by craftspeople, in the country of their sale, but they are made using materials that would please a range of green-minded people. The reason why these green shoes seem to be a cut above the rest is that you can go for a naturally-tanned leather option, if that pleases your reason, or else, a vegan one. So, depending on the shape of your principles, there will be a shoe that fits.
Further, the soles can be made in crepe rubber, wedge rubber, or Vibram tractor (the toughest-wearing). Further customisation is possible- the crepe can be made into a classic looking sole with heel (E.g. for a smart shoe) or a wedge. You can specify the width of the shoe, and they do half-sizes. Part of the ordering process consists of drawing your foot: and measuring your calf, for tall boots. Now that’s a custom job.
What else makes these green shoes so flexible? You can choose the colour, the shoes can be completely repaired (even the elastic and the eyelets) and re-soled, and the children’s shoes can be stretched to incorporate a growing child’s feet- that might come in handy.
This kind of choice is the kind of thing one would expect from a Jermyn street tailor; to have bespoke shoes made to order like this, and to have this choice for *green shoes*- that's what makes this company extra special, and why I've chosen to write about them here.
(Plus, these are handmade. Not, ‘made with hands coming into the process somewhere’, but handmade- made with hands, by maker-designers; shoesmiths; William Morris types (stop me here).
Some notes on the materials: the eco-leather option (eco-tan) consists of a soft leather tanned using only plants- as opposed to harsh chemicals and energy-draining methods. The leather comes from a small-scale, artisan tannery in Europe with excellent eco-credentials. The vegan shoes are made from Lorica, which is a Roman word referring to flexible yet protective body armour. Lorica is made from microfibres which are dyed and softened in Italy. The glues, soles and threads in the vegan shoes are also non-animal derived. The rubber for the crepe soles is from renewable plantations in Sri Lanka.
The shoes are made to order, so there is no excess energy used and minimal waste. Leftovers and scraps are used to make accessories and jewellery rather than being thrown away.
This, to me, is what green manufacturing is all about- buying for life, or, at least, for a long time. Unrepairable items end up in a bin, with a massive waste of material, and of money; cheap and unrepairable goods have to be bought again and again when they inevitably break.
Ethics, choice and sustainability. With a thoughtfully designed style that make one feel swish and comfortable while the shoes are doing their job of supporting their owner and repelling the aqueous and earthen elements. Head through to the Green Shoes website to have a look at the footwear designs on offer.. www.greenshoes.co.uk
Also, if you live near the area, then check out the shoemaking workshops! The one day programmes are held throughout the year. Visitors can also visit the workshop Monday-Friday 9.30-5.30 to get professionally measured or try on some of their stylish and supple shoes.
Posted under Companies, Eco Reviews, Lifestyle & Fashion, Product Innovations
This post was written by Barnaby Tidman on October 15, 2009
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